Prada RTW Spring 2022
On Friday, for the first time in fashion history, a ready-to-wear collection was presented simultaneously on the catwalks in two separate cities when Prada unveiled its spring 2022 women’s range in Milan and Shanghai simultaneously.
At the Fondazione Prada, located in the brand’s hometown, guests sat in small groups on multi-level gray plinths facing screens where the Shanghai show was broadcast live.
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“Doing these shows simultaneously demonstrates a new possibility – that a Prada show could take place anywhere,” said Prada co-creative director Raf Simons. “It’s about sharing, not just sharing images, not just sharing through technology, but sharing a physical event. Community is a vital idea: bringing together people who share ideologies, values and beliefs.
The format of the event not only demonstrated the financial might of the business – producing two shows and two collections is certainly not a small or inexpensive feat – but also underscored Prada’s understanding of the importance for luxury brands to cross new frontiers to engage with a global community.
As for the collection, Miuccia Prada and Simons wondered how traditionally dress clothes with historical value – including evening dresses with trains and corsets – can be relevant to modern women who want to feel attractive.
“We thought of words like elegant – but it sounds so old fashioned. Really, this is a flirtatious language that always comes down to the body, ”Prada said. “Using these ideas, these references to historical pieces, this collection is an investigation of what they mean today, what seduction means. Why are these ideas still important, after hundreds of years? We explore these ideas and confront them.
In a world where formal and casual blend together, Prada and Simons have tweaked and tweaked classics in their quest for new and cool sophistication.
In keeping with the strategy they’ve adopted since starting their professional marriage, the designers have featured variations on a few specific styles and silhouettes.
This season’s flagship items included Miuccia satin mini skirts with long trains, paired with heavily Raf leather jackets cut into different silhouettes, from bombers to blazers; gathered midi dresses, very good tone on the front and sexy in the back thanks to the high slits; sweaters with integrated bras for an instant lifting effect; tops and shirts with a paper feel and corsetry-inspired lace-up details, and knit rompers that hark back to the men’s collection presented in June.
“Trains, corsets, evening dresses. These things that are historically beautiful, they are interesting, but we want to disturb them. An evening dress, as beautiful as it is, looks like such unreality, ”explained Simons. “We want them to feel relevant for the 21st century, for women today. We want to enjoy the beauty, but in a way that is not about the past. This is today. These clothes can get complicated: evening dresses, historical costume. We wanted to make it simple, easy. It looks modern.
Ease is a concept the two designers have referred to a lot in recent seasons and this collection felt immediate, fresh, admittedly simple, but still charming and appealing. Granted, there may be some nostalgic for the multifaceted, intellectual and visual flamboyance of the past, but Prada and Simons aren’t really looking back. They seem very focused on finding what is relevant today, without giving up creativity and nervousness.
Launch gallery: Prada RTW Spring 2022