Lanvin Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Because the Art Deco archives that Bruno Sialelli discusses at Lanvin are already an acquired taste, he has two options: to be polite, to use it sparingly and to open the door to a wider potential audience? Or, do you go all out, amplify it and secure a clientele that is perhaps smaller but more uncompromising? It seems that Sialelli chose the latter. The glamorous positivity that has been incorporated into her recent collections is now as dazzling as this client could wish: gold embellishments, baby dress numbers, and cocktail dresses studded like skyscrapers.
“Most of the dresses we’ve sold lately were the strongest, like Bella [Hadid]the Lurex dress of the campaign, ”explained Sialelli during a preview of the collection in his Parisian showroom. “Most of the customers who come to us are supported by glamorous and fabulous products. They are looking for a higher, more confident version of themselves. These facts encouraged him to push the boundaries. In what he called a “bold and joyful, free and unapologetic” proposal, the designer explored Pop-Arty daisy prints, dense garlands and patterns from 1940s Batman comics.
If that sounds like a jarring mix, it was. High octane glamor has always distinguished between good and bad taste, and the collection’s clash between Batman’s embellished metallic gazar dresses, so shiny they looked wet, and the garland skirt suits was subversive to say the least. Speaking about his vision for the collection, Sialelli referred to the way animated worlds freely mix styles and cultures. “Like a dream village in Pinocchio made up of a Bavarian church and an English house, and it’s all mixed up and looks new. I love this idea, and I love the way it is applied Batman. “
The superhero came onto the scene thanks to Tim Burton’s 1992 masterpiece Batman Returns, which Sialelli loved to grow up. “The style of Art Deco through the lens of the film was very interesting for us, because fashion is about creating dreams lit by many references that you relate very freely,” he said. After the pandemic, we all need a hero, but wearing it over a cocktail dress can be a curious move, even for Lanvin’s prominent glamazons. The reference has been most successfully translated into Sialelli’s menswear forms, which are often more suited to the childish whims that have already made great motifs in his work.
In this case, the broad-shouldered figure of the Batman universe drew a line à la Tamara de Lempicka, which made Sialelli’s man Lanvin a little more mature. This sentiment was echoed in two beautifully cut trench coats, which hung around the body almost like evening dresses. If Naomi Campbell has her own Bat-Signal lighting up the skies, someone summoned her last night: The model closed the show, floating around the Pleyel Room in swollen black muslin like the Caped Crusader.