Fashion Month announces the return of evening wear

Missoni brought color and playfulness to her approach to evening wear | GETTY IMAGES

AT ITS MOST IRRESISTABLE, fashion is all about expression. But the lockdown – and the inability to go anywhere – undoubtedly quelled that, a time when personal style felt largely out of place and understating. For those who remain squatting in parts of Australia and New Zealand, the art of dressing is only a distant memory, and many are even becoming both acclimated and even at ease. in this new slogan of casual fashion.

But the last four fashion weeks have sparked something in us: the urge to dress. Truly get dressed. Lavish decadence and party vibes have unfolded in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, and perhaps the most appealing to emerge from the catwalks is the return to party attire. It was like a happy ode to the hedonistic glamor of yesteryear with a clear call to action: it’s time to get the party started.

While an undeniable sensuality invaded the catwalks, especially in Milan and Paris, the spirit of partying was also predominant. Partying, so to speak, is an integral part of the social fabric of the four cities; the chic rendezvous of Paris, the art of the aperitif in Milan, the thrilling underground of London, and of course, the city that never sleeps. Celebration is in their DNA, so it makes sense that all four cities have announced this return to festive fashion.

A new season always brings new possibilities, but the spring 2022 season was even more exciting. With freedom looming (in Sydney and Melbourne), it couldn’t have been more timely for Australians, some who have been bound by lockdowns and restrictions for most of two years. Seeing the fantasy of fashion week – the festive dresses, the upcoming cutouts, the sky-high heels – was exactly what we needed: an invitation to dress up and step into the world once in a while. more.

Loewe brought fantasy and escape back to the podium | GETTY IMAGES

The creators have collectively sought to ignite a sort of sartorial spark by offering escape pieces that evoke the pure pleasure of dressing. It was the modus operandi of fashion month; a festive and jubilant dialogue which was expressed triumphantly and with just the right amount of dazzling.


[Broadly speaking, fashion’s initial response to the pandemic was one of simplicity and functionality, rendering clothing to a simpler, more purposeful form (an antidote to the extensitel crisis which plagued it). Now, however, a sense of fantasy has been restored.]

Of course, the pageantry of festive dress is not only a zealous and enjoyable exercise in smoothing and preparation, but it is reminiscent of a young, carefree and connected era. A time when we not only felt uninhibited and a little reckless, but where we were together. Now, we’re back in this era of decadence and reunion, fueled by four weeks of spectacular (and scorching) fashion, the pump is back – and we’re ready to go.

So, in the spirit of merriment (and freedom!), Here are some of the fashion month’s festive sartorial highlights below, broken down into types of occasions we want to find ourselves once again.

The formal affair

Richard Quinn | GETTY IMAGES

At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson’s fashionable “psychedelic, hysterical” neurosis manifested itself in rampant electric wearable art; 3D dresses so fabulous and sandals so imaginative they made you dream of evening wear. It was the kind of conceptual rigor that Anderson became known for, but with an even deeper and more absurd surrealism embedded.

Nicolas Ghesquière continued his study of anachronism at Louis Vuitton, playing with exaggerated saddlebag sizes and mixing lace, velvet, frayed muslin, even denim, in beautiful prom creations worthy of the most opulent occasions.

While designers Rick Owens, Giambattista Valli, and Richard Quinn were all outspoken in their quest for beauty; negotiating the principle with shameless pride. Fashion’s ‘dark lord’ and eternal brutalist Rick Owens took color for an unexpected twist in splendid pleated chiffon dresses and matching bomber jackets that made even the most subversive, defiant renegades jump with joy. that in the face of trauma, beauty shines.

On the other side of the design spectrum, master of fantasy Giambattisa Valli honed her expertise as a dressmaker in ready-to-wear, with tall versions of embroidered long skirts and layers of sparkling tulle. Back in London, Richard Quinn’s iconic dramatic florals rubbed shoulders with searing colors, like pleated pants in cherry red, emerald, purple and baby blue, paired dramatically with matching tops in a variety of styles.

The raised picnic

Altuzarra | IMAXTREE

Picnics are clearly our new language of love, and Fashion Month is for picnic lovers. There were Chloe’s colorful pearl-studded dresses, which, paired with their stacked thongs, provided a moment of high bohemian bliss. Altuzarra also harnessed the beaknit spirit with beautiful shibori-print dresses and knits, and handcrafted delicacies like crochet.

Nigerian prodigy Kenneth Ize delivered a spoonful of optimism with gloriously sunny and striped pieces that, as always, employed request Fabric. While MSGM also nailed the picnic briefs with brightly hued gingham and small, relaxed florals designed for sprawling blanket.

For a more streamlined version, Lactose offered sporty outfits in bold hues, while Hermès offered an elegance to wear in the form of flowing pleated pants, breezy Bermuda shorts, relaxed fits and highly drawstring waistlines. indulgent (but chic!).

The dancing evening

Courrèges | GETTY IMAGES

Dancing in clubs might not be an option (for now), but the disco spirit has survived fashion week. Miu Miu’s iteration of the famous 2000s belted skirt – ironically worn with a belt – has been the fodder of nostalgic fashion fanatics everywhere, though when paired with knee high socks and penny loafers, she feels a lot more grounded and girlish than the Y2K club (also environmentally friendly!).

Courrèges delivered a galactic feast that would do exceptionally well on dance floors (even improvised!) And cool young girls Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Supriya Lele, and Nensi Dojaka designed disco-ready pieces that not only did inspired by the Y2K movement, but redefining sexy for the modern woman.

The sexy sunset

Gigi Hadid walks for Coperni | GETTY IMAGES

In Paris, Isabel Marant offered a welcome mix of bohemian and hot girls’ summer, showcasing sporty silky ensembles and flowing printed dresses that will look good on the beach, natural wine on ice.

Parisians, Coperni, have almost perfected the art of dating with their brand of smart and sexy minimalism, but spring 2022 offered more colors and prints than ever before. With a touch of the tropics in tow, there were flap skirts with full thigh slits, skimpy shell bralettes, and a sheer micro mini dress that broke into ruffles at the hem. And when the temperature drops but the party continues, sexy outfits in the form of sequin-speckled shawls and striking cutout blazers that slip over bandeau bikinis, proving that tailoring and beach are not mutually exclusive after all. You could almost feel the sweat of summer rising on your forehead, pina colada in hand.

While Stella McCartney’s return to Paris Fashion Week was triumphant and sexy. With athleisure and corsetry at the base, McCartney reinterpreted the cut-into-piece ready-to-wear swimsuits as dresses and tops, while Victoria Beckham’s silky briefs also had a subversive feel with cutouts. sensual and D-rings galore.

Milan has clearly championed the return of the little sundress, with Missoni, Marni and Pucci leading the way, while Sportmax and Acne Studios walked into the boudoir re-examining the bodice with sheer blouses and dresses in soft pastel hues that would work perfectly in a hot summer. night.

And who could forget Chanel? Bodycon seduction was the dress code of the day, but no one threw the party like Chanel, who dove into the ’90s archives to recapture striking black-and-white swimsuits, belly chains and big wings. of colorful butterfly on floating muslin. Taking us on a journey through the brand’s most glamorous decade, if there’s one way to approach a night out this summer, it’s to dress fashionably like Chanel.

Chrisanthi Kaliviotis is a freelance fashion, beauty and lifestyle writer and journalist based in Sydney, Australia.

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