City Life Org – Dior presents the Cruise 2023 collection
Cruise 2023 © Angela Suarez for Dior
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Dior Cruise 2023 collection is a journey of discovery and reflection. The locations chosen provide a spectacular setting for a procession of garments that come together to form a parade, echoing the history of the House and its desire to seek original collaborations inspired by their territories of origin.
The icon of this collection is La Capitana, the name given to Carmen Amaya. With her freedom to dance which did not submit to any rules, she represented the essence of Flamenco. An artist with singular and revolutionary movements, she was the first dancer in her field to dress in masculine clothes, combining power and fragility through her art. Expressing the soul of Spain, she continues to embody a conscious and plural femininity.
From the 1956 Spring-Summer haute couture dress from the Bal à Sevilla – designed by Christian Dior – to the Plaza de España – built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition to embrace the rich cultures that shaped Spain and represent its multitudes – real and metaphorical places abolish borders by rethinking the dress codes that inspire fashion. In this intense atmosphere, portrayed in the chiaroscuro of certain paintings by Goya and through the words of Federico García Lorca, a creative process was born, combining fascination, homage, interpretation and restitution.
Among other references, the looks evoke the Duchess of Alba, a mythical character who rode a horse with Jackie Kennedy in a short jacket, high-waisted trousers and wide-brimmed hat worn on the bias. But also, red, black and mantillas. Elsewhere, the abundance of embroidery that adorns the dresses of the revered Madonna della Macarena takes on the role of sacred ritual in a choreography that suspends the body in an iconic image.
The iconic Manila shawl tells the stories and journeys of the communities that created and worn it. The story of these nomadic objects is told in several voices: note the men’s pinstriped suits, the suspender pants, the silk-lined waistcoats; white shirts; the pants of the Andalusian horsemen; cropped jackets decorated with brandenburg closures; tailored boleros that further refine the silhouette; sleeves that can flare out like a cape. Shimmering taffeta – red, yellow, ochre, black – is sculpted into exuberant skirts that symbolize both Dior and Spain. Carefully studied volumes enhance the contrasts; lace appears in multiple forms; the Barjacket is reinvented in black velvet embroidered with various gold threads.
This Dior event cruise is thus transformed by Maria Grazia Chiuri into a meeting of emotions and intentions, conveying an idea of fashion that is both everyday and extraordinary, where the creations celebrate the multiplicity of visions of femininity. .